29/04/2022 – Franschhoek, South Africa – Driving to Hermanus
We had been given so many warnings about South Africa, many of them related to driving: some more typical like making sure no luggage was left on display and making sure you had change for parking (although in South Africa this was generally for attendants rather than a parking meter), but the tips would get a little more extreme like maintaining a longer distance from the car in front in case they would rob you, to making sure there is also a gap and a clear route of escape in case of attempted robberies or hijackings at traffic lights (trivial – traffic lights are called ‘robots’ in South Africa!). Tarnya had spent some time as a child near Johannesburg when her grandad temporarily migrated to the country to work in a new train manufacturer and we’d (un)helpfully heard all manner of frightening stories before the trip from them.
However, by this point of the trip we were fairly experienced at driving in South Africa, admittedly we hadn’t had to escape a hijacking or robbery, but we knew the score and had become used to the local quirks of driving here after a few drives around Cape Town and a longer drive to Franschhoek.
On this particular drive we were leaving Franschhoek and travelling to Hermanus, across steep hillsides and mountains and whilst keeping a keen eye out for wildlife. We’d ticked off dassies at Boulders beach near Cape Town, so we were on the lookout for African striped weasels, chacma baboons and African short clawless otters, the latter of which didn’t feel too likely. We did however manage to sight some wild baboons, two on the road and a couple a little off the road in the grasses.
Tarnya was driving this particular leg of the journey because I hadn’t quite recovered from the ‘best way to explore the Franschhoek Valley’, the Wine Tram and worried my reaction times might not be as sharp as needed, despite finishing the wine tour early the previous evening.
In spite of the hairpin bends, and guaranteed death if we drifted off the tight roads, we were still making haste to ensure we would arrive in Hermanus in good time. As Tarnya swung around a particularly tight turn, with a particularly steep drop, an overladen pick up truck appeared directly in front of us, driving much faster and with no sign of stopping. We both inhaled sharply and braced, then Tarnya’s rarely witnessed, but lightning quick reflexes kicked in and she swerved as far left as possible and forced the brake pedal on our little VW Polo through the floor, slowing us down and giving us the best possible chance of survival.
The pick up truck swerved at the last second, and missed us by mere inches. The driver appeared to have just woken up and mirrored our terror.
This was one of the most frightening experiences we’ve ever had. I don’t think we’ve been closer to death before or since, at least not knowingly.
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